Neapolitan Eggplant Parmesan

This recipe was handed down to me by my father-in-law, Chef Salvatore Somma, who learned it from his mother. It was one of the specialties at Maria's Italian Restaurante in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, New York, the family restaurant named in her honor. Unlike many eggplant Parmesan recipes, ours uses a simple flour-and-egg coating rather than breadcrumbs, allowing the delicate flavor of the eggplant to come through. Layered with a lightly seasoned filetto di pomodoro sauce, Parmesan, and fresh mozzarella, it remains one of my favorite Italian dishes—and the one that first taught me to appreciate eggplant.

Recipe makes 8 servings

Whatcha Need

• 3 large globe or Italian eggplants (about 3 pounds total), sliced lengthwise approximately ¼-inch thick
• 5 teaspoons coarse sea salt, divided
• 6 large eggs, beaten
• ¼ cup whole milk
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup vegetable oil, plus more as needed for frying
  

  For the filletto di pomodoro sauce:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large red onions, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• ½ cup dry red wine
• 2 cans (28 ounces each) whole plum tomatoes, hand crushed
• 1½ teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 cup fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped
  

  For assembly:

• 1 pound fresh mozzarella, torn into small pieces and drained well
• 2 cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Whatcha Do

1. Prepare the eggplant: Arrange the eggplant slices in a colander, sprinkling with 3 teaspoons of the salt as you layer them. Weight them down with a small plate, and let drain for 30 minutes to remove some of the excess moisture. Rinse briefly under cold water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.

2. Prepare the coating: In a shallow dish or pie plate, combine the flour, remaining 2 teaspoons of salt, and black pepper. In a second dish or pie plate, whisk together the eggs and milk until well blended.

3. Fry the eggplant: Heat about ¼ inch of vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat to approximately 350℉. Working in batches, dredge each eggplant slice lightly in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess, then dip into the egg mixture, allowing any excess to drip off. Carefully place the slices in the hot oil and fry until golden brown, about 2–3 minutes per side, depending on their thickness. Transfer to a wire rack set over a baking sheet, or to paper towels, to drain. Add additional oil as needed between batches, allowing it to return to temperature before continuing.

4. Preparing the tomato sauce: Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 10–15 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the red wine and simmer for 2–3 minutes to reduce slightly.

5. Finish the sauce: Add the hand-crushed plum tomatoes and oregano. ring to a gentle simmer, reduce the heat, and cook uncovered for approximately 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened slightly but remains loose enough to spread between the layers. Remove from the heat, stir in the fresh basil, and taste for seasoning. Add a little salt only if needed.

6. Assembly the casserole: Preheat the oven to 350℉. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce over the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Arrange a layer of fried eggplant over the sauce, overlapping the slices slightly if necessary. Spoon a little more tomato sauce over the eggplant, sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and dot with pieces of fresh mozzarella. Continue layering in the same order until all the eggplant has been used, finishing with tomato sauce and the remaining cheeses. Aim for approximately three layers of eggplant, depending on the size and number of slices.

7. Bake: Cover the baking dish loosely with lightly oiled aluminum foil, taking care not to press it against the cheese. Bake for approximately 25–30 minutes, or until heated through and bubbling around the edges. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 10–15 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the top is lightly golden. If additional browning is desired, place briefly under the broiler, watching carefully.

8. Rest and serve: Remove from the oven and let stand for 15–20 minutes before cutting into portions. Serve warm with a loaf of crusty Italian bread.

Notes:

• Fresh mozzarella contains considerable moisture. Drain it thoroughly before assembly to prevent the casserole from becoming watery.
• The sauce should be thick enough to coat the eggplant without flooding the layers, but not so reduced that it loses its fresh tomato character.
• Refrigerate leftovers promptly in a covered container for up to 3–4 days. Reheat thoroughly before serving.