Grub Americana

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Doing Time at the Dinner Table

As a chef, I never gave much thought to when the people being fed have virtually no choice about what, when, or how they eat. That changed when my sons went to prison.

• • • • • • Montreal Melon: The Giant Fruit That Once Ruled Eastern Markets

Montreal Melon, or Montreal Nutmeg Melon as it is sometimes called, is a remarkable fruit, once one of the great agricultural treasures of Canada. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, wealthy diners in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Montreal eagerly awaited its short summer season. Hotels and fine restaurants advertised it by name, and upscale fruit merchants displayed the giant melons like jewels in their shop windows.