Traditional Greek Moussaka

Moussaka is one of Greece's best-loved comfort foods, a hearty casserole of tender eggplant, potatoes, richly seasoned ground lamb, and a thick, creamy béchamel topping. Although variations are found throughout the Mediterranean and Middle East, the familiar Greek version is distinguished by its golden, custard-like topping and the subtle warmth of cinnamon and other spices in the meat sauce. While the vegetables are often fried, I prefer roasting them, which uses less oil while still developing their flavor. It takes a little time to prepare, but the finished dish, with its beautifully defined layers, is well worth the effort.

Recipe makes 8 generous servings

Whatcha Need

• 3 large globe eggplants (about 3 pounds total), sliced ½-inch thick
• 1 tablespoons coarse sea salt
• ½ cup olive oil
• 2 medium waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick
  

  For the sauce:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1½ pounds ground lamb (or half lamb, half beef)
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• ½ cup dry red wine
• 1 can (14 ounces) crushed tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 2 bay leaves
• 1½ teaspoons coarse sea salt, or to taste
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  

  For the béchamel:

• 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter
• ⅔ cup all-purpose flour
• 3¾ cups whole milk, warmed
• ½ teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 teaspoons salt (for the béchamel)
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1 cup grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese, divided
• 3 tablespoons fine dry breadcrumbs

Whatcha Do

1. Prepare the eggplant: Arrange the eggplant slices in a colander, sprinkling with the coarse salt as you layer them. Weight them down with a small plate, and let drain for 30 minutes to draw out moisture. Rinse briefly under cold water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.

2. Roast the vegetables: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Brush both sides of the eggplant and potato slices lightly with olive oil and arrange in single layers on parchment-lined baking sheets. Roast for 20-30 minutes, turning halfway through, until the eggplant is tender and lightly golden and the potatoes are cooked through. Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 375℉.

3. Make the meat sauce: Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until softened and lightly golden, about 7–10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, just until fragrant. Add the ground lamb, breaking it apart with a wooden spoon, and cook until well browned, about 7–10 minutes. Drain off excess fat if necessary.

4. Finish the meat sauce: Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring frequently. Pour in the red wine and simmer until reduced by about half. Add the crushed tomatoes, cinnamon, allspice, oregano, bay leaves, salt, and black pepper. Simmer uncovered for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and no longer watery. Remove the bay leaves, stir in the parsley, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

5. Make the béchamel: IMelt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring constantly, without allowing it to brown. Gradually whisk in the warm milk and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thick and smooth, about 6–10 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with nutmeg and salt.

6. Finish the béchamel: Allow the sauce to cool for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Gradually whisk a few tablespoons of the warm sauce into the beaten egg yolks to temper them, then slowly whisk the yolk mixture back into the saucepan. Stir in half of the grated cheese. The béchamel should be thick enough to spread over the casserole without running between the layers.

7. Assemble the moussaka: Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and sprinkle the bottom with half the breadcrumbs. Arrange the roasted potato slices in an even layer, followed by half the eggplant, all the meat sauce, and finally the remaining eggplant. Pour the béchamel over the top and spread evenly. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and breadcrumbs.

8. Bake the moussaka: Bake uncovered at 375℉ for 40–50 minutes, or until the top is deeply golden brown, the béchamel is set, and the edges are bubbling.

9. Rest before serving: Remove from the oven and let stand for at least 30 minutes to allow the layers to set. Cut into squares and serve warm with a simple tomato-cucumber salad and crusty bread.

Notes

• Leftovers reheat beautifully and often taste better the next day. Refrigerate promptly and use within 3–4 days.

• For a lighter version, replace the potatoes with additional roasted eggplant.