Sugar’s Cornbread Dressing

On Thanksgiving Day in 1994, just a few months before her death, Momma and I prepared this dressing together in her kitchen. It was the same cornbread dressing she had made for as long as I could remember, using the cornbread recipe passed down from her mother, my Grandma Etchieson. I still make it much the same way today.

Recipe serves approximately 16–20

Whatcha Need

• 3 cakes Grandma Etchieson's Cornbread, preferably a day old (each baked in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet)
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1⅔ cups whole milk
• 3 slices white sandwich bread (lightbread), diced
• 1½ medium onions, diced
• 5 celery ribs, diced
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the baking dish
• Ground sage, to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Poultry seasoning or dried marjoram, to taste
• Approximately 3–5 cups chicken broth, or as needed

Whatcha Do

1. Prepare the cornbread a day ahead, allowing it to cool completely. Crumble it into a large mixing bowl and set aside.

2. In a small bowl, combine the diced lightbread and milk. Cover and refrigerate until the bread has softened and absorbed most of the milk.

3. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and celery and sauté until tender but not browned, about 8–10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a large baking dish or two smaller casserole dishes.

5. Add the milk-soaked lightbread, sautéed vegetables and their butter, beaten eggs, sage, salt, pepper, and poultry seasoning or marjoram to the crumbled cornbread. Mix gently until thoroughly combined.

6. Gradually add the chicken broth, beginning with about 3 cups, stirring gently after each addition. Continue adding broth until the mixture is very moist and easily spoonable, but not soupy. The cornbread will absorb considerable liquid as it rests, so add a little more broth if necessary. Taste and adjust the seasonings before adding the raw eggs, or cook a small spoonful separately to check the seasoning.

7. Transfer the dressing to the prepared baking dish, spreading it evenly without packing it down. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake for approximately 45 minutes.

8. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 15–25 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the center is set. The dressing should be moist and tender inside, with a lightly crisp crust on top. The center should reach 165°F.

9. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5–10 minutes before serving.

Serve warm, accompanied by Sugar's Giblet Gravy.

Cook's Notes

• Consistency: Sugar's dressing was always soft, moist, and spoonable, never firm enough to cut into squares. Before baking, the mixture should be quite loose and thoroughly moistened, with enough chicken broth that it settles naturally into the baking dish. Once baked, the dressing should remain tender and moist inside, with a lightly crisp, golden-brown top and edges.

• Monte's Sausage Variation: Over the years, I've added a few touches of my own to Momma's dressing. I begin by browning pork breakfast sausage, breaking it into small crumbles as it cooks. I remove the sausage from the skillet, add a little butter to the remaining drippings, and sauté the onions and celery until tender. Then I add the sausage and vegetables to the crumbled cornbread and milk-soaked lightbread, along with the remaining ingredients. I gradually stir in chicken broth until the mixture reaches the proper soft, spoonable consistency. Occasionally, I'll add some toasted pecan pieces for a little extra texture.

• Chicken Broth: The amount required will vary depending on the age, moisture content, and absorbency of the cornbread. Add it gradually, mixing gently, until the dressing is quite moist and loose. The cornbread will continue absorbing liquid as it bakes, so don't be afraid of a mixture that looks wetter than you might expect.